| You come upon them almost as a pleasant surprise from out of the past, like an explorer finding a shining obelisk poking out of a sea of Egyptian sand.
The eight San Francisco
Bay Historical Markers stand along the
Richmond shoreline—the east bay’s most accessible waterfront—where
you can find some of the most spectacular
views in the area.
Along the curving shoreline
to the north are sweeping views first of
Emeryville’s shimmering towers, then of Oakland’s downtown skyline, and then the slow rise of the foothills leading up to the horizon. To the right are the working Richmond docks where containers the size of boxcars—they actually are boxcars—are
dropped by cranes like Star Wars creatures
into the holds of carrier ships the size
of enormous buildings. Straight ahead are
the bay waters themselves, cool and gray,
spanned by great bridges, the hunting island
once owned by
Crosby, and far across, the golden domes
and spires of the city of San Francisco.
Sixty-five years ago,
a small city population of workers—90,000 at its height—looked
out upon this same magnificent Richmond
shoreline view as they built the ships
that helped win World War II for America
and the allies.
Part of the untold
story of how that happened—and how Richmond went overnight from a Southern-like, mostly-white backwater town of 23,000 to a multicolor, multicultural city of 100,000 - is now told in Richmond’s
Bay Trail Markers.
They are unlike the
old roadside historical markers which simply
remark, a little dryly and dolefully, that “200 Yards From Here, In 1864, A Command Of Confederates Was Ambushed By Union Soldiers,” and
nothing more.
Instead, Richmond’s Bay Trail Markers are living testimonials set on 18-foot-tall metal stanchions (“suggesting,” the marker brochure explains, “the prow of a massive wartime ship”). Permanently embossed on graffiti-proof surfaces, the markers themselves contain old photos and quotations from the people who worked in the wartime shipyards, many of whom are alive today and continue to play a role in Richmond’s
political, social, and economic life.
One marker shows the
clubs and theaters and cowboy bars that
sprung up to entertain the massive numbers
of off-duty workers; another depicts the
stories of the Italian-American and Japanese-American
Richmond citizens suddenly finding themselves
ostracized, interned, and enemies in their
home towns (“When my family returned to the nursery, all the glass panes in the greenhouses were broken. I didn’t see it because I was overseas with the 442nd in Italy.” reads the poignant quote); another shows Richmond’s
segregated union halls.
Dedicated last fall, the markers are designed so that each can be viewed alone and separately by people walking along the waterfront or as an entire story outlining Richmond in the war years.
The marker design was a collaboration of the design firm Mayer/Reed, visual artists James Harrison and Lewis Watts, and writer Chiori Santiago, but they were the brainchild of Berkeley historian Donna Graves.
“Credit for the markers needs to go to Donna,” says
Betty Reid Soskin, a Richmond resident
who works for the Rosie The Riveter Park
project of the National Park Service and
who worked in the segregated union hall
during World War II and whose quotation
appears on one of the markers.
“She was determined that they reflected the reality of those times, and that they included authentic voices,” she said. “She
insisted on that.”
Soskin was also one
of several local persons who sat on the
marker’s advisory panel while what Graves calls “some difficult topics of race and segregation and patriotism” were
being hammered out.
Graves, who will only
admit that she “kind of put the project together,” said
the idea for the markers came while she
was working on the Rosie the Riveter Memorial,
which honored the women who worked the
wartime shipyards while men did the fighting
overseas.
“We came across so many rich stories about wartime Richmond during that time,” Graves says. “I was interested. I thought others would be. It adds a layer of history and memory to an area of the city whose past has pretty much been wiped away. It’s not intended to be just a Richmond story told to other people in Richmond. It’s
telling the Richmond story to the world.”
She was hired to develop
the project by the Richmond Redevelopment
Agency, which has jurisdiction over construction
on Richmond’s waterfront. A third
of the project money came from the Redevelopment
Agency, with the rest coming from the California
Coastal Conservancy and the Association
of Bay Area Governments.
“We wanted the markers to be living memorials, rather than simply the sort of plaques on a stick you usually see,” she explained. “Everywhere
during the second World War, Americans
were being bombarded with the rhetoric
that everyone was welcome on the home front.
But the reality of minorities on the Richmond
shipyards was a difficult period of tension
where discrimination continued. While all
that was going on, these were everyday
people doing extraordinary things in extraordinary
times.” |